The Kunene River forms the border between Namibia and Angola, and runs through an area that is, on both banks, largely undeveloped. The regularly paddled section is that between the Ruacana Hydro-electric scheme and the fantastically scenic Epupa Falls. It consists of long stretches of quiet water interspersed with spectacular multi-channel gorges, some of which contain nice challenging grade three or four rapids, and some of which contain hectic waterfalls or grade five and six rapids. An interesting aspect of this river is that, being downstream from Ruacana, the water level fluctuates daily, as the sluice gates are opened, as well as seasonally.
The scenery is spectacular, with dramatic gorges, waterfalls and lovely stretches of open water. The vegetation is dominated my large acacia thorn trees, towering palms and beautiful flowering shrubs that overhang the river – sometimes for kilometres at a stretch. Birds are plentiful, with some interesting endemics, such as the Cinderella waxbill and the rufous-tailed palm thrush.
With very few exceptions, only the nomadic pastoralist Himba, who may be seen on the banks, herding their cattle and goats, live here. They are a proud nation, and have preserved much of their tribal identity, particularly their fascinating dress, unique jewellery and elaborate hair styles. They are, as a rule, very friendly and, although very few speak English or any other European language, quite willing to communicate and trade. You just have to buy a brass Himba bracelet, made out of recycled artillery shells – a new take on beating swords into ploughshares. Unfortunately, though, recycled shells and a few abandoned, bullet-scarred buildings are not the only legacy of the long war that took place in this region during the 1970’s and 1980’s.
In summer, when the water level is high, the river is fast-flowing, the birding is good, and the rapids are fast, but not too technical. As the level drops in winter, there are more rapids, so the general paddling is more exciting, but the summer migrants leave so the birding is less rewarding. As the river reaches still lower water levels, at the end of winter, ie August or September, the rapids become much more technical and some may need to be portaged. The weather is most pleasant during winter and early spring, when it is relatively cool. Summer can be very hot indeed, and the malaria risk is much higher. Obviously, these conditions are just a guideline, as rainfall changes from year to year – more so recently, as the effects of global climate change become more apparent.
This is a malaria area and relevant precautions should be taken. There are crocodiles and hippos in the river, but they are few and far between, as they were used as target practice by both sides during the war. Another consequence of this practice is that they are very shy and will duck and hide if they sense the approach of humans. Nevertheless, swim only in pools in rapids, where you are highly unlikely to encounter a hippo or croc.
The stretch from below Epupa Falls to the sea has been paddled, but it’s seriously hard-core. Hectic rapids, confusing channels, hidden waterfalls and siphons, long rugged portages, wall to wall hippos and hundreds of the biggest, meanest, and most vicious crocodiles in Africa all contribute to keeping this area free of humans. There is also no way back from the mouth unless you organise it yourself.